21 Apr DIY anti-blemisch and acne cream
Especially in the case of acne, proper skincare is important. And it can generally not be found at a drugstore or expensive cosmetics retailer since there is no miracle cure for acne or impure skin. This is because every skin is different and the causes of acne or impure skin are also different for everyone. Therefore, cosmetic care must be individually adapted to each skin type.
In the following, a recipe for an anti-acne cream is presented, which serves as a good basis for different skin types, but can also be individually adapted if necessary.
STRUCTURE OF AN EMULSION
An emulsion generally consists of water and an oil phase, an emulsifier that combines both phases and various arbitrary additives such as active ingredients and preservatives. A short and simple introduction to the basics of emulsions can be found here.
Oil Phase (1/3)
In the oil phase the vegetable oils, wax, fat-soluble thermostable active ingredients, and the emulsifier are dissolved. It therefore consists of:
The oil has anti-inflammatory effects, heals, and nourishes stressed skin. The antibacterial and disinfecting effects also make argan oil a suitable oil for blemished skin and skin prone to acne. At the same time, argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and thus ensures smooth and supple skin.
Comedogenicity = 0
Jojoba oil is absorbed by the skin almost without residue and therefore does not leave an oily film on the skin. The oil is well tolerated by all skin types and has a moisturizing and antibacterial effect. Those who are plagued by impure skin may be well advised to use jojoba oil. Its antibacterial effect prevents the spreading of germs without drying out the skin at the same time.
Comedogenicity = 1
The light oil is quickly absorbed and does not form a film on the skin. It is therefore very well suited for oily skin. The oil has an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect, which is why it has proven itself for use with acne or skin diseases. In body care products the oil is often used because of its cell-renewing effects, its refatting properties, and its protective function.
Elderberry seed oil
Elderberry seed oil has anti-inflammatory and calming effects and is therefore well suited for the care of impure skin. It is a light oil with a low melting point that does not lay heavily on the skin. The oil does not leave a greasy film and thus provides non-film-forming emulsions which are well suited for the care of oily and impure skin. Comedogenicity= 1-2
Currant seed oil
Due to its high content of stearidonic acid, the mild currant seed oil is ideal for impure skin with a tendency to acne and inflammatory skin conditions. Especially sensitive skin is effectively soothed by the anti-inflammatory properties of the oil. Black currant seed oil can be just as effective for skin irritations as for eczema. Comedogenicity= 0-1
Evening primrose oil
The active ingredients of the oil’s fats are similar to the natural fats of the skin and are therefore particularly well tolerated and quickly absorbed. Inflammatory, impure, and dermatitic skin can be well cared for with evening primrose oil, as the oil disinfects the affected areas and fights the inflammations in the skin. The oil’s refatting component also accelerates healing. Comedogenicity= 2-3
Sea buckthorn oil
All sea buckthorn oils have antibacterial properties and thus disinfect inflamed skin areas and help them to heal. Especially the fatty acid linoleum promotes the natural defence and protective function of the skin and supports the removal of dead skin cells. Comedogenicity= 1
Grape Seed Oil
Grape seed oil is absorbed very quickly by the skin without leaving a greasy film. Therefore the oil is well suited for the care of mixed, oily and impure skin. Due to its refatting and moisture-regulating effect, however, even dry and cracked skin can be treated well with grape seed oil. Comedogenicity= 1
Berry wax is suitable as a consistency-giving, slightly co-emulsifying, and refatting component in cosmetic products. It can also be used as a vegan substitute for beeswax. In skincare applications, however, it is much lighter and less film-forming than beeswax.
Avocadin HU 25
Avocadin contains skin physiologically related substances in a very concentrated form. These support the lipid layers present in the horny layer which prevent the evaporation of water from the skin, bind water, and have a regenerating effect on the skin. Furthermore, studies have shown that they also counteract inflammatory processes and soften the irritating effect of surfactants and UV filters in formulations.
Squalane, at 5 % – 12 %, is one of the main natural components of sebum, which ensures that the skin does not dry out. Squalane ensures a more moisturized skin, in which fewer wrinkles form by reducing the skin’s loss of moisture. The oil also has an excellent spreading ability (spreadability), which results in a smooth skin feeling. It can, therefore, improve the spreading properties of an emulsion without forming a disturbing greasy film and gives the emulsion a silky “finish”.
Montano 68 is an excellent emulsifier for rich yet light creams that leave a moisturized, soft skin feeling, are absorbed very quickly and provide noticeable care. Montanov 68 does not require a co-emulsifier and no further stabilizers.
Those who like ultra-light creams that leave no film are well advised to use this emulsifier. Montanov L is an emulsifier for light lotions or moisturizing fluids. Emulsions based on this emulsifier are particularly easy to pour off since it flows quite thinly.
Emulsan is a mild and non overlying emulsifier recommended for lotions and rather light creams. But the emulsifier is also suitable for higher fat phases.
Water Phase (2/3)
Glycerin has a very moisturizing effect on the skin and increases its elasticity. Thanks to its ability to bind water, glycerine has a stabilizing effect on an emulsion and improves its consistency.
Due to its cleansing and antiseptic effects, thyme hydrosol is very well suited for the care of skin impurities and acne. Besides its disinfecting effects, thyme also has a soothing effect on the skin.
Witch hazel hydrosol has antipruritic, antibacterial, skin-caring and regenerating effects on the skin. Its soothing and anti-inflammatory effects especially help in the case of reddened skin. But impure skin also benefits from the active ingredients of witch hazel hydrosols. Due to its astringent effect the hydrosol is ideally suited for oily and porous skin.
Distilled or demineralised water
Normal tap water usually has a too high lime content and the ions in the water can negatively influence the properties of the preparations. You could also use boiled mineral water, but for cosmetic purposes you also want to avoid minerals and bacteria.
Thermally Unstable Additives (3/3)
The extract from the flowers of the marigold is known for its healing effect on problematic skin. Thanks to its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, calendula is considered one of the most suitable and popular medicinal plants for the treatment of skin injuries such as minor wounds, sunburn, minor burns and acne.
Nicotinamide is a commonly used substance for topical acne treatment. Studies show that the vitamin B3 derivative has an anti-inflammatory effect and leads to an improvement of acne.
D-panthenol increases the skin’s moisture retention capacity and thus supports the new formation of skin cells and contributes to the regeneration of the skin. This is particularly important for acne skin. Even with an application rate of 1% it strengthens the barrier layer of the skin and improves its elasticity. Itching and redness of the skin are reduced.
Aloe vera juice/gel
Aloe Vera moisturizes and regenerates the skin. The gel is mainly used for natural treatment of wounds, skin diseases and sunburn. Its ingredients have an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and analgesic effect. In cosmetics, the gel of the miracle plant has long been used and processed into creams due to its moisturizing properties.
Vitamin E oil
Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals. These aggressive molecules are constantly created during the natural metabolic processes in the body. In addition, vitamin E also stabilizes the durability of oily substances by slowing down their oxidation and rancidity.
The preservative Rokonsal is suitable for emulsions but also for shampoos and shower gels. It is able to act against bacteria and at the same time inhibits the growth of yeast and mould.
Application and Shelf Life
- As the anti-acne cream is a light cream, it can be used for day or night care.
- The cream should be spread evenly over the face and massaged it in a little.
The anti-acne cream has a maximum shelf life of 3 months.
Anti Blemish and Acne Cream Recipe
- 15 ml of oil
- 2 gr berry wax
- 1 gr avocadin
- 2 gr squalane
- 3 gr Montanov68
- 2 gr glycerine
- 60 ml of thyme hydrosol
- 1 gr calendula extract
- 1 gr nicotinamide
- 2 gr D-panthenol
- 5 gr aloe vera juice/gel
- 2 gr vitamin E oil
- 1 gr Rokonsal (conservator)
- 2 glasses for a water bath
- milk frother/mixer/hand mixer
- cream jar
- Heat the ingredients of the oil phase and the water phase in a water bath. The temperature of both phases should be 75 – 85 °C degrees and all ingredients should be completely melted.
- Now remove both phases from the stove and add the water phase to the oil phase in a thin stream.
- Mix the two phases at high speed until the consistency of the product is creamy and the color turns white. This can take a few minutes.
- When the cream has cooled down to hand warmth, the heat-sensitive additives are now added and mixed well again.
- If necessary, the pH value can be adjusted. For the emulsifier Montanov68 the optimum pH value is 5.5 – 6.
- Finally, all air bubbles that have formed should be stirred out of the cream by hand.
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Liability: All stated effects are for information purposes only and do not replace a visit to the doctor. There is no guarantee for stated effects and skin compatibility of the raw materials and the end product. The production and application is at your own risk and responsibility.